Category Archives: Speakers

Sonitus MR8XT Mid-Range Horn

We became aware of a growing desire for 3-way mid-high cabinets, and the demand for a dedicated mid-range horn for this application. After a long search, we found the perfect products: the Sonitus MR8XT and MR8XTN.

The MR8XT and MR8XTN are based on the same injection moulded horn with phase plug and back bowl.

The MR8XT utilises a ferrite magnet driver and the complete unit weighs 7.8kg. The ferrite version has the added benefit of a larger thermal mass, which helps the driver handle maximum power with more ease.

The MR8XTN has a neodymium magnet, which brings the total weight down to a tiny 5.3kg, which helps keep the total cabinet weight down.

 


The moulded horn comes complete with phase plug and sealed back chamber, so they’re ready to go straight out of the box, no additional building or modification is required. Since the unit is sealed, it doesn’t need its own mid-range chamber and can share a chamber with a woofer operating in a different band.

 

 

 

What’s the point of the horn?

The Horn flare boosts the sensitivity of the 8″ driver, the standard 8″ without the horn has sensitivity of approx 98dB 1W/1m which is pretty good for an 8″ driver, but isn’t breaking the laws of physics just yet. The horn flare and phase plug boost the sensitivity to around 104-105dB, thats an increase of approximately 6dB. The 8″ runs at 150W to achieve the same boost as the horn flare gives just by increasing power to the 8″, you would need a 600W 8″ driver, which a) does not exist and b) if it did exists, probably would be very, very expensive. Alternatively you could use 2-4 drivers instead of one. The horn flare’s main job is improving efficiency, to the point the 8″ is almost as loud as many high frequency compression drivers, and you can use just one 8″ where otherwise you might need 3 or 4.

The other function of the horn is dispersion control. In a large format system you don’t want random drivers firing sound in all directions, you end up with a muddy sound, with no clarity and the sound goes everywhere, not just towards the audience. If you control the dispersion, you can focus the sound at the audience, and also have an element of control over where each driver fires the sound, to minimise overlap of separate sound sources, and help create a coherent sound.

Things get a little technical here, but don’t worry if you don’t fully understand it. The pictures below will make perfect sense to some people, and hopefully a little sense to novices, and we’ve included some notes to help you get a handle on what this information represents.

 

 

Horizontal dispersion plot. On the left is the angle in degrees, and on the right, the colour coding indicating the volume drop in dB. Along the bottom is the frequency in Hertz.

This unit operates best between 400Hz and 2500Hz. If you look at the response at 500Hz, at 60 degrees off axis, the volume is 7-9dB quieter than on-axis, and the edge of the yellow area is about the limit of the useable operating range of the unit. A little interpretation of the graph shows that the -6dB point is approximately 35-40 degrees off axis, so the majority of the sound is projected forwards up to 40 degrees off the center line. The above is the horizontal measurement, so it’s 40 degrees to the left of centre, and 40 degrees to the right of centre, beyond this point, the sound drops off to lower levels quite quickly.

Here is the corresponding Horizontal Frequency response plots on axis (0 degrees) and at 30 degrees off axis. The SPL is around 104-106 db 1W/1M between 400Hz and 2khz off-axis at 30 degrees. On axis, the SPL peaks at 110dB at 2khz  (thats easily as loud as many compression drivers)

 

The polar plots show a line of volume 360 degrees around the horn. You can see at lower frequencies (630 Hz) some of the sound goes backwards, but as the frequency increases, the horn is more directional. At 1250 Hz, the -6dB point is approximately 40 degrees and at 1600Hz, the -6dB point is approximately 30 degrees. 
Overall, we are working on the horn being roughly 40 degrees horizontal dispersion for purposes of speaker designs. The dispersion varies with frequency, but a fair approximation is 30 degrees.

The vertical plots give similar information to the horizontal plots, but obviously, in the vertical axis. If you’ve understood so far, I’m sure you can figure out the relevance of this. The information is similar, and the horn gives a similar dispersion vertically to horizontally, although subtley different.

 

What’s the Phase plug for?

The main job of the phase plug is to prevent cancellation of higher frequency sounds as the travel along the horn. The horn flare sides will reflect sounds produced by the 8″, if these sounds hit each other and are out of phase, they will cancel each other out. The phase plug helps the higher frequency sounds move along the horn without cancelling out, thereby extended the high frequency response of the unit. Without the phase plug, the maximum usable frequency might only be 1000Hz, but with the phase plug, 2500Hz is possible.

 

Why does it need a sealed chamber?

The sealed rear chamber does two jobs, firstly it keep bass frequencies out of the mid driver, which means the MR8XT doesnt need its own part of the cabinet. Without the moulded back bowl, bass frequencies from the woofer could interfere with the movement of the 8″ driver, and pressure from the sound waves would modulate and distort the sound from the 8″, which is very undesirable.

The moulded back bowl also provides the 8″ with its own small rear chamber, in effect a mini-cabinet of its own. The chamber helps control cone excursion and keeps the sound tight and clean.

Why not just use a compression driver?

Lots of reasons, and we dont have all day…  but we’ll cover this briefly.

  1. Most compression drivers that can go down as low as 500Hz – 800Hz struggle at higher frequencies.
  2. Most compression drivers ‘honk’ in the critical vocal mid band region, with resonances and distortion evident at higher volumes.
  3. Most compression drivers have less that desirable frequency responses in the lower mid region, requiring a lot of additional equalisation to achieve a good result.
  4. Good quality compression drivers that can handle these frequencies are often very expensive, much more expensive than the MR8XT
  5. Paper cones sound smoother than titanium diaphragms. If you achieve a similar SPL with a horn loaded paper cone as a titanium diaphragm you will most likely have less THD, less resonance, and less listening fatigue.
  6. In our tests, the MR8XT at full power was very loud, but didnt ‘hurt’ our ears. An equivalent test with a compression driver trying to cover a similar frequency band at similar volumes resulted in short term tinnitus after relatively short exposure time.

Do you need an MR8XT?

If you want quality, and clarity – yes, Absolutely!

 

 

 


Tuff Cab Loudspeaker Paint

tuffcab_heading2

Tuff Cab, our very own specialist loudspeaker paint, is an enormously versatile, easy to apply water-based acrylic blend. Hard-wearing, it is ideal for finishing your newly-built speaker cabs to give them an easily-maintained professional look, or for sprucing up your trusty warhorses to have them look like they just left the showroom.

A custom-formulated viscous mixture, Tuff Cab lends itself to a huge range of different surface finished depending on how it is applied, so here’s our handy guide for how to quickly and easily obtain the best results.

1) Surface Preparation:

Cab refurbishment - before painting

Cab refurbishment – before painting

As with absolutely any surface finish, proper preparation of the surface to be painted is absolutely essential prior to painting. Tuff Cab is designed for optimum adhesion to bare timber, and as a water-based mixture it’s important to make sure that there are no traces of oil or grease present. A little bit of light sanding is usually advisable to remove surface contamination; bear in mind that this will leave traces of dust behind, which you will need to remove by wiping the surface with a clean, slightly damp cloth. No primer is required before applying the Tuff Cab – best results are achieved painting directly onto bare wood. Some people like to use a watered down mix of Tuff Cab (approx 50:50 with tap water) as a primer/base coat, and apply this by spraying or rolling with a non-textured roller, this helps the paint key into the surface, but is not essential.

Although designed primarily for application to timber, Tuff Cab does offer good adhesion to a range of other porous materials, and works well with MDF and natural wood. ABS, polypropylene and other plastics do not offer a suitable surface for Tuff Cab, so we not advise to attempt refinishing such items in this way. MDF and plywood will readily accept Tuff Cab, some resin, epoxy, plastic and solvent-based wood fillers will impair adhesion over the filled area.

handy hint Handy Hint: If you do use plastic/solvented fillers, a thin coat of PVA glue can be brushed over the affected zone, this will help seal any solvents, and prime the surface, significantly improving  adhesion in these problem areas.  

However we recommend avoiding the use of this type of filler if at all possible. For covering screw holes, we have had good results from mixing standard wood filler with PVA glue. The glue hardens the filler, making it less prone to flaking, and seals it at the same time. Some paint finishes (particularly two-pack polyester paints) will not provide good adhesion for Tuff Cab, and it is advisable to sand these down to bare wood prior to painting. Any cellulose base paint must be completely removed prior to applying Tuff Cab.

2) Painting:

Tuff Cab’s viscous finish is specifically designed for roller application, ideal for a fast, easy, professional results. Other methods of application (such as brush or spray) are also possible, but these may not yield optimum results, and can require specialist equipment and considerable experimentation to achieve an acceptable finish. For this reason, we recommend roller application.

Tuff Cab is best applied at room temperature – avoid painting in an exceptionally cool environment (below 12°C) as the drying time increases significantly, excessive temperatures (above 25°C) can result in the Tuff Cab surface drying too quickly. Within this temperature range, the first coat will usually dry in around 30-60 minutes (dependent on  application thickness and temperature – in a cool environment, up to 2-4 hours is not unknown), subsequent coats will take a little longer. A second heavy, textured coat may take up to 24 hours to fully dry in cool conditions.

Painting in the heat: On a hot summer’s day it may be very tempting to get all your speakers out in the garden and give them a fresh coat of paint. We advise you try to pick a slightly cooler day. Summer heat with temperatures around 30°C, the paint can dry in as little as 10-15 minutes, sometimes making it difficult to finish a panel with an even coat, rapid drying time like this will tend to increase the possibility of roller marks from the edges of the roller.  With the paint drying whilst you are rolling it on, it is possible also for the texture to become a little ‘spiky’ making the surface feel very rough, almost like sandpaper.

Honeycomb Roller TUFFROLLER01

Honeycomb Roller TUFFROLLER01

For a textured finish, Tuff Cab can be applied using a honeycomb roller.  The 4″ roller is ideal for small jobs, as it takes minimal paint to wet the roller, and you can dip the roller straight into the tin, no need for a paint tray!

We recommend applying a relatively heavy coat and then rolling in both directions to evenly distribute the paint. Less rolling will give a more pronounced stippled finish, more thorough rolling will gradually flatten the texture and yield a more moderate texture finish. When using the textured roller it is best to roll steadily and smoothly, applying excessive pressure is likely to leave marks at the edges of the roller, and rolling too fast can cause a rough spiky texture. Once the paint is spread across a panel, gradually reduce the pressure on the roller, so that the last few rolls are very gently, almost like you are pulling the roller along with your fingertips.

For larger speakers and panels, you may find it is quicker to simply pour on a small amount of Tuffcab, and use a 9″ textured roller to quickly spread the paint across the panel. With a 9″ roller you can often coat a panel in less than half the time of a 4″ roller.

Use of both 4″ and 9″ rollers together allows quick coverage of large panels, and the ability to work around corners, edges and ports.

If you prefer a smoother finish this can be achieved by applying tuffcab with a standard fluffy polyamide pile roller.

handy hintPractise first: Before you start refurbishing old speakers, or painting new speakers, we strongly recommend a practise run on an offcut. Slightly different textures can be obtained by varying the amount of paint applied, the type of roller, the speed of rolling and  to what extent you repeat the rolling to flat the paint.

Two to three coats of Tuff Cab are usually enough to provide adequate protection and a suitable surface finish for most applications, and depending on the temperature, you can apply this within a 24 hour period and have a ‘touch-dry’ finish. When touch-dry it is possible to handle speakers and move them around, but we do not recommend using them straight away, it can take up to a week for the paint to fully cure and harden, longer in cool conditions.

If you need the paint to cure quicker, once it is touch-dry you can use an infra-red heater, such as an electric patio heater. Do not use a heater  on freshly painted surfaces as may dry the paint too quickly, causing cracks to appear in the surface. Avoid positioning the heater too close to speaker cabinets, and ensure you follow the manufacturers recommended minimum operating distance for your heater.

Once fully cured, your speakers will be road-ready.

3) Cleaning and Storage:

Whilst wet, Tuff Cab is water-soluble, and your painting equipment (along with any unwanted paint splashes and spillages) can be cleaned with cold tap water; simply rinse under running cold water until the water runs clear and the equipment is clean. As with any water-based paint, ensure that Tuff Cab is not exposed to extremes of temperature in storage – it must be stored no lower than 5°C, and preferably no higher than 25°C.

Storage below  5°C can damage the chemical structure, preventing the paint from curing and adhering when used. If damaged in this way, the paint will appear to dry as normal, but it bonding properties will have been severely impaired and the paint may peel off.

Long term storage  outside of recommended temperature range can adversely affect the product structure, composition and performance. Product must be kept in a tightly sealed container, stored out of direct sunlight. Tuff Cab has a recommended shelf life of 6 months, but if kept at standard room temperature, the shelf life can be up to 18 months. In part-used containers of Tuff Cab, spraying a very light misting of water over the top of the Tuff Cab in the container prior to re-sealing for storage can help alleviate skinning-over. If you find you have applied a little too much water, just pour it out or mix it back into the paint before use. Repeated addition of water will affect the viscosity, and the final finish, so minimal water should be used for consistent results.

handy hintHandy Hint: You dont need to wash your roller our between coats, just wrap it in a plastic bag, or cling film to avoid exposure to the air, and then take the plastic off when doing the next coat – the paint and roller will stay fresh for up to 3-4 days under the plastic saving you cleanup time! 

 

Cab refurbishment - All done!

Cab refurbishment – All done!

 

Related articles: https://blog.bluearan.co.uk/new-tuff-cab-pro-just-arrived/

 

Technical Information:

Physical Properties:

Total Solids % : 40-50
pH : 5.0 – 7.0
Film Appearance : variable Satin-Matt (Tuff Cab Pro) to Satin-Gloss (Tuff Cab Standard)
Minimum Film Forming Temperature: 5°C
Coverage Rough Finish: 2-3 m2 per kg
Coverage Smooth Finish: 4-6 m2 per kg

Health & Safety:

Tuff Cab is non-toxic and is not harmful if handled sensibly. It should not, however, be ingested. Care should be taken to prevent contact with skin and eyes. In case of contact with eyes, thoroughly rinse with water. No adverse affects are known resulting from contact with skin, however it is recommended to use disposable gloves to minimse exposure. The coating is water based and therefore non-flammable. Spillage can be absorbed with sawdust or other suitable absorbent material. Small quantities may be washed away with water according to Local Authority Regulations. Fumes are low-odour, and breathing apparatus is not required, however it is recommended to use Tuff Cab in a well ventilated area.

 

 

 

 

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